Rich and spicy as the pepperpot soup that originated with the Taino
Indians, Jamaican cooking is a culinary melting pot that combines
a hint of Spanish, a dash of English and a heaping teaspoon of Indian
and Chinese with a cup or two of African ingredients to serve up
the Caribbean's most creative cuisine.
Jamaica's history is told by the food Jamaicans eat. The cassava
the Arawaks grew is used today as "bammie," a toasted
flat cake eaten with fried fish. The Maroons, always on the run,
devised a way of spicing and slow cooking pork that they called
"jerking", today's visitor tastes jerk chicken and fish
as well. To feed the slaves cheaply and well, the ackee fruit was
brought from Africa, as were breadfruit and a variety of yams and
root vegetables.
The Africans carried their own culinary secrets with them, including
duckunoo, a steamed pudding made of green bananas and coconut. Breadfruit
arrived on the island courtesy of Captain William Bligh, of Bounty
fame. And the ubiquitous meat patties sold by roadside vendors are
a direct, but much spicier, descendent of English meat pasties.
Curried goat, a popular island dish often served with rice and
peas, dates to 1845 when -- following the abolition of slavery --
plantation owners began importing indentured laborers from India
and later China; the new arrivals quickly added their own contributions,
including curry and other spices, to the island's expanding palette
of exotic flavors.
In addition to indigenous vegetables like cho-cho, which tastes
a little like squash, and callaloo, which is similar to spinach
and used in pepperpot soup, Jamaica's lively markets are piled high
with bananas, coconuts and pineapples, as well as the more exotic
guineps, pawpaws, sweetsops -- and the star apple that, when mixed
with oranges and condensed milk, makes a delicious dessert called
"matrimony."
The native pimento tree, the source of allspice, adds itself to
numerous Jamaican dishes. So do ginger, garlic, nutmeg and Scotch
Bonnet peppers, considered the hottest on earth. These may or not
be a key ingredient of the island's famous Pickapeppa Sauce -- the
recipe is a closely guarded secret -- but they're essential when
it comes to making the mouth-searing jerked pork, chicken and fish
for which Jamaica is equally famous.
A technique thought to originate with the Maroons, descendents
of slaves who escaped from their Spanish masters to the island's
most remote mountain areas, "jerked" meat is marinated
for hours in an incendiary mixture of peppers, pimento seeds, scallion,
thyme and nutmeg, then cooked over an outdoor pit lined with pimento
wood. The low heat allows the meat to cook slowly, so it loses little
of its natural juices while becoming saturated with the flavor of
the wood.
Jerk stands can be found all over the island. Rastafarian I-tal,
or vegetarian, meals abound in Negril. In the Middle Quarters area
of the South Coast, dried peppered shrimp are sold by the bag. Delicacies
like Stamp and Go (saltfish cakes eaten as appetizers) and mackerel
Run-Down (whole salted mackerel simmered in coconut milk, tomatoes,
onions, scallions, thyme and hot peppers, and served with boiled
green bananas or yams) can be enjoyed island-wide.
Source: Jamaica Tourist Board
Date: Year 2000
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